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The New York
Times / Connecticut THALI
is an innovative new restaurant in New Haven
whose chef, Prasad Chirnomula, is determined to change the way we
think about Indian food. Dishes come from all over India. They are
unusual, exciting, and so varied that I am never bored with eating
there. And that brings me to what I love best about Thali: It is a terrific introduction to Indian food. The use of spices — ground or whole, combined into a paste, added early or late in the cooking process — is at the heart of Indian cooking. Each region has its own distinct spice palette. Eating at Thali is like taking a crash course in the diversity of Indian cuisines , and it is tremendous fun. I usually start with a chaat (the word literally means “to lick” and refers to snacks sold by street vendors all over India). One of my favorites is Bhel poori, an exuberant sweet-sour-spicy concoction of crisp puffed rice seasoned with mint and tamarind chutneys. Both chutneys, along with a third, mango, make up a sampler that is brought to the table as soon as diners arrive, along with two types of papadums: one roasted, spiced with cumin and black pepper; the other, which I prefer, unspiced and deep fried to a shattering crisp. The southern regions of India, characterized by their exotic blend of coconut, curry leaves, nutty mustard seeds and fiery chilies, are well represented at Thali. The Konkan crab appetizer (from Maharashtra on the southwest coast of India), with its big chunks of succulent crab, is excellent, sauced with coconut tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, ginger and chili. A special appetizer from Goa (also on the southwest coast) features mussels cooked with coconut, lemongrass, curry leaves and tomato. Another special was cooked in the style of Kerala (farther south): Chilean sea bass, coated with rice flour and fried to a thin crust, is served in coconut sauce that is golden with turmeric, also tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves. (I found both coconut sauces tasty but too thick.) There are several rich offerings from Hyderabad, Mr. Chirnomula’s hometown in south central India, that reflect the felicitous marriage of indigenous and invading Mogul cultures. Andhra chicken stew, for example, a spicy specialty of Mr. Chirnomula’s mother, is bathed in a beautiful, light tomato-curry sauce. Another Hyderabad dish — a superb appetizer offered as a special one night — is made with thin slices of lamb marinated in green papaya, chilies, cashews, black pepper, garlic and ginger, then cooked in the traditional method: skewered and seared on a hot stone. Northern India is well represented by tandoor roasted dishes (the shrimp are enormous and moist) and lovely biriyanis; the chicken, sweet with onion and tomato, is particularly good. Indians make the best okra I’ve ever tasted. Especially appealing are the crisp shreds of deep-fried okra mixed with slivered green chilies, tomatoes and cilantro, and the okra curry. As good as the food is here, the desserts stand out. Mr. Chirnomula, who has two other restaurants in Connecticut also named Thali, has borrowed Surbhi Sahni, a talented young pastry chef, from Suvir Saran’s New York restaurant, Devi. One of her best creations is a lovely lemon trio: a lemon cake (usually luscious but a little dry one night) topped with lemongrass sorbet and lemon curd. Though Ms. Sahni, a native of New Delhi, has yet to perfect the banana samosa (the crust is somewhat heavy), her orange custard is appropriately creamy, and the cardamom ice cream is simply fabulous. The first time I ate at Thali, the flavors were terrific, but some of the meat and seafood was overcooked. That fault has been remedied. Expect to pay what you’d pay for any upscale meal and expect to be delighted. Thali EXCELLENT THE SPACE | Roomy and well lit, with comfortable, attractive chairs. Lounge has low tables for more intimate seating. Wheelchair access. THE CROWD | Quiet, urban, a little dressy. Excellent service. THE BAR | Full bar and well-priced wine list with great choice of Austrian, German and Alsatian whites that are excellent with spicy food; appealing selection of specialty cocktails. THE BILL | Lunch entrees, $8 to $15. Dinner entrees, $14 to $29. WHAT WE LIKE | Chaats, Konkan crab, Goan mussels; all breads; chole peshwari (chickpeas), jeera alu (cumin potatoes), chicken biryani, prawn kebabs, fish tikka, Andhra chicken, chicken korma, ghosht banjara (very spicy goat), Marathi ghosht (lamb stew), okra; orange custard, lemon dessert, ice creams. IF YOU GO | Lunch and Sunday brunch buffet, noon to 2:30 p.m. Dinner, Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 4 to 9 p.m. Bar menu in lounge from noon to closing every day. Reviewed Sept. 17, 2006 |
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